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CHAPTER XXI NOTES ON THE WESTERN JOURNEY Christmas Day at Knob Head Mountain: In search of Fossils: Adrift on a Floe: Party picked up by the Nimrod, January 26 MEANWHILE the
Western Party, which
had left the winter quarters for the second time on December 9, had
been
working in the western mountains. The three men (Armytage, Priestley,
and
Brocklehurst) reached the stranded moraines on December 13, and on this
occasion succeeded in securing a large supply of skuas' eggs. The
anticipated
feast was not enjoyed, however, for only about a dozen of the eggs were
"good
enough for eating," to quote the words of a member of the party. The
other
eggs were thrown on to the snow near the tent, and the result was an
invasion
of skuas. They not only ate the eggs, but also made themselves a
general
nuisance by pulling about the sledge harness and stores. At this time
the men
were troubled by patches of thin ice, about an eighth to a quarter of
an inch
thick, forming a lenticle, the top of the middle being sometimes as
much as
five or six inches from the actual surface. When these patches of ice
were
trodden on they broke down, and not infrequently disclosed a puddle of
salt
water an inch or two deep. Priestley thought that they were the final
product
of the thawing of snowdrifts, and owed their character to the fact that
the
salt water worked faster from below than did the sun from above. On December 15
the party started to
ascend the Ferrar Glacier, Priestley examining the rocks carefully on
the way
with a view to securing fossils if any were to be found. The surface
was hard
for the most part, soft snow being encountered where ice had been
expected. On
December 19 they were held up by a blizzard, and then they got on to
very
slippery crevassed ice. On December 20 they camped near the Solitary
Rocks, at
the spot where Captain Scott had camped after leaving Dry Valley. The
idea of
getting to Depot Nunatak had to be abandoned, for a heavy snowfall made
the
travelling difficult, and the time at the disposal of the expedition
was short.
Priestley worked under the Bluff between Dry Valley and the east fork
of the
glacier without success and then they moved over to Obelisk Mount. An
examination of the Solitary Rocks proved that the map was incorrect at
this
point. The previous expedition had thought that the rocks formed an
island,
with the glacier flowing down on either side, but a close examination
showed
that the rocks were in reality a peninsula, joined to the main north
wall by an
isthmus of granite at least one thousand feet high. Priestley proceeded
with
geological and survey work in the neighbourhood. On December 24 a new
camp was
pitched at the foot of Knob Head Mountain. Christmas Day
was spent at this
camp, and, as was the case with the other sledging expeditions that
were out at
the time, a special feast was provided. For breakfast they had hoosh,
sardines
in tomato sauce and raisins; for lunch, Garibaldi biscuits and jelly;
and for
dinner, potted boneless chicken and a small plum pudding. Armytage
picked up a
piece of sandstone with fernlike markings, but Priestley was not
hopeful of
finding fossils in the greatly altered sandstone. The day was spent in
geological work. "We lose the sun here about 9.30 p.m." noted
Priestley in his diary, "and it is curious to observe the sudden change
from bright light to darkness in the tent, while outside the thin
surface of
ice covering the thaw-water round the rocks immediately contracts with
reports
like a succession of pistol-shots, and sometimes breaks up and flies
about in
all directions, making a noise like broken glass. This is the effect of
the
quick cooling of the ice by the cold plateau wind immediately the sun's
influence is withdrawn. The plum pudding was 'top hole.' Must remember
to give
one of the pot-holed sandstones to Wild for the New Zealand girl who
gave him
the plum pudding." On December 27
the men proceeded
down the glacier again in order to see whether the Northern Party had
arrived
at Buttez Point. Priestley studied the moraines on the way down, and
made an
extensive collection of specimens, and on January 1 they arrived at the
depot.
They had constant trouble with crevasses and "pot-holes" on the way
down the glacier, but met with no serious accident. The snow-bridges
many times
let them through up to their knees or waists, but never broke away
entirely.
The weather was unpleasantly warm for the sort of work they were
undertaking,
since the snow was thawing, and they were constantly wet. They found no
sign of the Northern
Party at Butter Point, and after waiting there until the 6th they
proceeded to
the " stranded moraines," a day's trek to the south, in order that
geological specimens might be secured. The moraines, which were found
by the Discovery expedition, and
are relics of
the days of more extensive glaciation, present a most varied collection
of
rocks, representative of the geological conditions to be found in the
mountains
to the west, and are of very great interest on that account. After
spending two
days at this spot, the party went back to Butter Point with about 250
lb. of specimens,
and camped again till the 11th. Still there was no sign of the Northern
Party,
and on the 12th they went north to Dry Valley. There Priestley found a
raised
beach, about sixty feet above sea-level, and Brocklehurst climbed the
mountain
known as the Harbour Heights. They went back
to the depot on the
14th, and pitched camp in order to wait for the Northern Party until
the 25th,
when they were to make their way back to winter quarters, or signal for
the
ship by means of the heliograph. On January 24-25 this party had a very
narrow
escape from disaster. They were camped on the sea-ice at the foot of
Butter
Point, intending to move off on the return journey early on the morning
of the
25th. Their position was apparently one of safety. Armytage had
examined the
tide-crack along the shore, and had found no sign of more than ordinary
movement, and the ice in the neighbourhood seemed to be quite fast. At
7 A.M.
on the 24th Priestley was first out of the tent, and a few minutes
later he
came running back to his companions to tell them that the ice they were
on had
broken away and was drifting away north to the open sea. The other two
men
turned out promptly, and found that his statement was only too true.
There were
two miles of open water between the floe and the shore, and they were
apparently moving steadily out to sea. "When we found that the ice had
gone out," wrote Armytage in his report to me, "we struck camp,
loaded up the sledge, and started away with the object of seeing
whether we
could get off the floe to the north. The position seemed to be rather
serious,
for we could not hope to cross any stretch of open water, there was no
reasonable expectation of assistance from the ship, and most of our
food was at
Butter Point. We had not gone very far to the north before we came to
an
impassable lane of open water, and we decided to return to our original
position. We went into camp and had breakfast at 11 A.M. Then we held a
consultation and agreed that it would be best to stop where we then
were for a
time, at any rate, on the off-chance of the ship coming along one of
the lanes
to pick us up on the following day, or of the current changing and the
ice once
more touching the shore. We waited till three o'clock in the afternoon,
but
there did not seem to be any improvement in the position. The
killer-whales
were spouting in the channels, and occasionally bumping the ice under
us. Then
we marched north again, but met with open water in every direction, and
after
we had marched right round the floe we got into camp at the old
position at 10
P.M. We had a small meal of hooch and biscuit. We had only four days'
provisions on the floe with us, and I decided that we would have to go
on short
rations. We were encouraged by the fact that we had apparently ceased
to move
north, and were perhaps getting nearer the fast ice again. We got into
our
sleeping-bags in order to keep warm. At 11.30 P.M. Brocklehurst turned
out to
see whether the position had changed, and reported that we seemed to be
within
a few hundred yards of the fast ice, and still moving cowards the land.
I got
out of my bag and put on my finnesko, and at midnight saw that we were
very
close to the fast ice, probably not more than two hundred yards away. I
ran
back as fast as I could, deciding that there was a prospect of an
attempt to
get ashore proving successful, and gave the other two men a shout. They
struck
the camp and loaded up within ap very few minutes, while I went back to
the
edge of the floe at the spot towards which chance had first directed my
steps.
Just as the sledge got up to me, I felt the floe bump the fast ice. Not
more
than six feet of the edge touched, but we were just at that spot, and
we rushed
over the bridge thus formed. We had only just got over when the floe
moved away
again, and this time it went north to the open sea. The only place at
which it
touched the fast ice was that to which I had gone when I left the tent,
and had
I happened to go to any other spot we would not have escaped. We made
our way
to Butter Point, and at about three o'clock in the morning camped and
had a
good meal. Then we turned in and slept. When we got up for breakfast,
there was
open water where we had been drifting on the floe, and I sighted the Nimrod under sail, ten or twelve miles
out. We laid the heliograph on to the vessel, and after flashing for
about an
hour got a reply. The Nimrod came
alongside the fast ice at three o'clock in the afternoon of January 26,
and we
went on board with our equipment and specimens. We left a depot of
provisions
and oil at Butter Point in case the Northern Party should reach that
point
after our departure." On January 22
and 23 a fresh sand
blew from the south and commenced to break up the ice-sheet in the
neighbourhood of Cape Royds, compelling the ship to refasten further to
the
southward. From this point Davis took a sledge-party to Hut Point with
despatches that the supporting-party was to convey to me at the Bluff
Depot. On
the 25th the ice had broken up to such an extent that Captain Evans
thought
there would be a chance of getting far enough across McMurdo Sound to
search
the western coast-line for the party that had been exploring the
western
mountains, and also for the Northern Party, which might by that time
have
returned from the journey to the Magnetic Pole and reached Butter
Point. The Nimrod stood out into
the sound, and
from a distance of ten or twelve miles a heliograph was seen twinkling
near
Butter Point. The ship was able to get right alongside the fast ice,
and picked
up Armytage, Priestley, and Brocklehurst. After this date
fine weather was
experienced only at short intervals, the season being advanced, and as
a
consequence the fast ice that remained in the sound commenced to break
up
rapidly, and took the form of pack trending northwards. When blizzards
blew, as
they did frequently, the Nimrod
moored on the lee-side of a stranded iceberg in the neighbourhood of
Cape
Barne, with the object of preserving her position without the
consumption of
more coal than was absolutely necessary. After the ice had broken up
sufficiently, shelter was found under Glacier Tongue. The waiting was
rather unpleasant
for the remaining members of the shore-party and for those on board the
ship,
for the time was approaching when it would be necessary to leave for
the north
unless the Nimrod was to be frozen
in
for the winter, and two of the parties were still out. I had left
instructions
that if the Northern Party had not returned by February 1 a search was
to be
made along the western coast in a northerly direction. The party was
three
weeks overdue, and on February 1, therefore, the Nimrod
went north, and Captain Evans proceeded to make a close
examination of the coast. The ship did not get back to the hut until
February
11. During this time Murray and Priestley found work of scientific
interest.
Priestley tramped the country, and now that the snow had in great
measure
disappeared, was enabled to see various interesting geological deposits
previously covered up. Beds of sponge spicules, enclosing various other
fossils, were evidence of recent elevation of the sea bottom. A thick
deposit
of salts was found on a mound between two lakes, and some curious
volcanic
formations were discovered. The smaller ponds were entirely melted, and
gave a
chance to find some forms of life not evident in winter. The penguins
continued
to afford Murray material for study. The Nimrod's
search for the Northern Party
was both difficult and
dangerous. Captain Evans had to keep close to the coast, in order to
guard
against the possibility of overlooking a signal, which might consist
only of a
small flag, and the sea was obstructed by pack-ice. He was to go north
as far
as a sandy beach on the northern side of the Drygalski Barrier, and he
performed his duty most thoroughly in the face of what he afterwards
modestly
described as "small navigational difficulties." The beach, which had
been marked on the chart, was found to have no existence in fact, but
the Nimrod reached the
neighbourhood
indicated, and then proceeded south again, still searching every yard
of the
coast. On the 4th a tent was sighted on the edge of the Barrier, and
when a
double detonator was fired the three men who had been to the Magnetic
Pole came
tumbling out and ran down towards the edge of the ice. Mawson was in
such a
hurry that he fell down a crevasse, and did not get out again until a
party
from the ship went to his assistance. "They were the happiest men I
have
ever seen," said Davis in describing the finding of the party. Their
sledge, equipment, and specimens were taken on the Nimrod,
which was able to moor right alongside the fast ice, and
then Captain Evans proceeded back to the winter quarters. In the
chapters that
follow Professor David tells the story of the Northern Party's journey.
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