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CHAPTER XI THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY Preparation: Depot A laid: First Days of the March from Winter Quarters: Start from Hut Point, November 3 When the
question of weight came to
be considered I could realise the seriousness of the loss of the four
ponies,
during the winter. It was evident that we would be unable to take with
us
towards the Pole as much food as I would have liked. I decided to
place a depot one
hundred geographical miles south of the Discovery
winter quarters, the depot to consist of pony wa:ze. The party,
consisting of
Adams, Marshall, Wild, Marston, Joyce and myself, left Cape Royds on
September
22 with a load of about 170 lb. per man, and the motor-car towed the
sledges as
far as Inaccessible Island, at the rate of about six miles an hour. We
took two
tents and two three-man sleeping-bags, for we expected to meet very low
temperatures. I had decided to take neither ponies nor dogs, so we took
the
sledges on ourselves, travelling over a fairly good surface as far as
the Discovery hut, where we passed
the first
night. The journey was a severe one, for the temperature, at times, got
down to
59° below zero Fahr. We reached the main depot in latitude 79° 36'
South,
longitude 168° East, on October 6. This we called " Depot A." It was
marked with an upturned sledge and a black flag on a bamboo rod. We
deposited a
gallon tin of oil and 167 lb. of pony maize so that our load would be
considerably reduced for the first portion of the journey when we
started
south. The weather was very severe on the return journey and we did not
reach
the old Discovery winter quarters
until October 13. We had been tewnty-one days out, but had been able to
march
only on fourteen and a half days. The next day we started for Cape
Royds and
had the good fortune to meet the motor-car a mile and a half south of
Cape
Barne. The sledges were soon hitched on, and we drove triumphantly to
winter
quarters — having travelled 320 statute miles since September 22. During our
absence the Northern
Party consisting of Professor David, Mawson, and Mackay, had started on
the
journey that was to result in the attainment of the South Magnetic
Pole. I had
said good-bye to Professor David and his two companions on September 22
and we
did not meet again until March 1, 1909. In chapter xxii. the Professor
tells
the story of the Northern journey. The Southern
Party was to leave
winter quarters on October 29; so on the return of the party from Depot
A we
commenced final preparations for the attempt to reach the South Pole. I
decided
that four men should go south, I myself to be one of them, and that we
should
take provisions for ninety-one days: this amount of food with the other
equipment would bring the load per pony up to the weight fixed as the
maximum
safe load. Early in 1907 I had proposed that one party should travel to
the
east across the Barrier surface towards King Edward VII Land but the
accidents
that had left us with only four ponies caused me to abandon this
project. The
ponies would have to go south, the motor-car would not travel on the
Barrier,
and the dogs were required for the southern depot journey. I deemed it
best to
confine the efforts of the sledging-parties to the two Poles,
Geographical and
Magnetic, and to send a third party into the western mountains with the
object
of studying geological conditions and, in particular, of searching for
fossils. The men
selected to go with me were
Adams, Marshall, and Wild. A supporting-party was to accompany us for a
certain
distance in order that we might start fairly fresh from a point beyond
the
rough ice off Minna Bluff, and we would take the four ponies and four
sledges. Arrangements
were made for sending
out a party early in December to lay a depot for the Northern Party.
When this
had been done, the same party would proceed to the western mountains.
On January
15, 1909, a depot party, under the command of Joyce, was to lay a depot
near
Minna Bluff containing sufficient stores for the return of the Southern
Party
from that point. This same party was to return to Hut Point, reload its
sledge
and march out to the depot a second time, there to await the arrival of
the
Southern Party until February 10, 1909. If the Southern Party had not
arrived
by that date Joyce and his companions were to go back to Hut Point and
thence
to the ship. Before my
departure from winter
quarters on the southern journey, I left instructions which provided
for the
conclusion of the work of the Expedition in its various branches, and
for the
relief of the men left in the Antarctic, in the event of the non-return
of the
Southern Party. I gave Murray command of the Expedition in my absence
and full
instructions. The trials of the motor-car in the neighbourhood of the
winter
quarters had proved that it could not travel over a soft snow surface,
and the
depot journey had shown me that the surface of the Barrier was covered
with
soft snow, much softer and heavier than it had been in 1902, at the
time of the Discovery expedition. In fact
I was
satisfied that, with the Barrier in its then condition, no wheeled
vehicle
could travel over it. The wheels would simply sink in until the body of
the car
rested on the snowy surface. We had made alterations in the wheels and
we had
reduced the weight of the car to an absolute minimum by the removal of
every
unnecessary part, but still it could do little on a soft surface, and
it would
certainly be quite useless with any weight behind, for the driving
wheels would
simply scoop holes for themselves. The use of sledge-runners under the
front
wheel, with broad, spiked driving-wheels, might have enabled us to get
the car
over some of the soft surfaces, but this equipment would not have been
satisfactory on hard, rough ice, and constant changes would occupy too
much
time. I had confidence in the ponies, and I thought it best not to
attempt to
take the car south from the winter quarters. The
provisioning of the Southern
Party was a matter that received long and anxious consideration.
Marshall went
very carefully into the question of the relative food-values of the
various
supplies, and we were able to derive much useful information from the
experience of previous expeditions. We decided on a daily ration of 34
oz. per
man; the total weight of food to be carried, on the basis of supplies
for
ninety-one days, would therefore be 773½ lb. The staple items were to
be biscuits
and pemmican. The biscuits, as I have stated, were of wheatmeal with 25
per
cent. of plasmon added, and analysis showed that they did not contain
more than
3 per cent. of water. The pemmican had been supplied by Beauvais, of
Copenhagen, and consisted of the finest beef, dried and powdered, with
60 per
cent. of beef-fat added. It contained only a small percentage of water.
The
effort of the polar explorer is to get his foods as free from water as
possible, for the moisture represents so much useless weight to be
carried. THE MOTOR-CAR IN THE GARAGE, MAIZE-CRESHER ON THE RIGHT Pemmican 7.5 Emergency ration 1.5 Biscuit 16.0 Cheese or chocolate 2.0 Cocoa .7 Plasmon 1.0 Sugar 4.3 Quaker Oats 1.0 34.0 Everything was
ready for the start
on the journey towards the Pole as the end of October approached, and
we looked
forward with keen anticipation to the venture. The supporting-party was
to
consist of Joyce, Marston, Priestley, Armytage, and Brooklehurst, and
was to
accompany us for ten days. Day was to have been a member of this party,
but he
damaged his foot while tobogganing down a slope at the winter quarters,
and had
to stay behind. The weather was not very good during our last days at
the hut,
but there were signs that summer was approaching. The ponies were in
good
condition. We spent the last few days overhauling the sledges and
equipment,
and making sure that everything was sound and in its right place. In
the
evenings we wrote letters for those at home, to be delivered in the
event of
our not returning from the unknown regions into which we hoped to
penetrate. Events of the
southern journey were
recorded day by day in the diary I wrote during the long march. I read
this
diary when we had got back to civilisation, and arrived at the
conclusion that
to rewrite it would be to take away the special flavour which it
possesses. It
was written under conditions of much difficulty, and often of great
stress, and
these conditions I believe it reflects. I am therefore publishing the
diary
with only such minor amendments in the phraseology as are necessary in
order to
make it easily understood. The reader will understand that when one is
writing
in a sleeping-bag, with the temperature very low and food rather short,
a good
proportion of the "ofs," "ands" and "thes " get
left out. The story will probably seem bald, but it is at any rate a
faithful
record of what occurred. I will deal more fully with some aspects of
the
journey in a later chapter. The altitudes given in the diary were
calculated at
the time, and were not always accurate. The corrected altitudes are
given on
the map and in a table at the end of the book. The distances were
calculated by
means of a sledge-meter, checked by observations of the sun, and are
approximately accurate. October
29,
1908. A
glorious day
for our start; brilliant sunshine and a cloudless sky, a
fair wind from the north, in fact, everything that could conduce to an
auspicious beginning. We had breakfast at 7 A.M., and at 8.30 the
sledges that
the motor was to haul to Glacier Tongue were taken down by the penguin
rookery
and over to the rough ice. At 9.30 A.M. the supporting-party started
and was
soon out of sight, as the motor was running well. At 10 A.M. we four of
the
Southern Party followed. As we left the hut where we had spent so many
months
in comfort, we had a feeling of real regret that never again would we
all be
together there. It was dark inside, the acetylene was feeble in
comparison with
the sun outside, and it was small compared to an ordinary dwelling, yet
we were
sad at leaving it. Last night as we were sitting at dinner the evening
sun
entered through the ventilator and a circle of light shone on the
picture of
the Queen. Slowly it moved across and lit up the photograph of his
Majesty the
King. This seemed an omen of good luck, for only on that day and at
that
particular time could this have happened, and today we started to
strive to
plant the Queen's flag on the last spot of the world. At 10 A.M. we met
Murray
and Roberts, and said good-bye, then went on our way. Both of these,
who were
to be left, had done for me all that men could do in their own
particular line
of work to try and make our little expedition a success. A clasp of the
hands
means more than many words, and as we turned to acknowledge their cheer
and saw
them standing on the ice by the familiar cliffs, I felt that we must
try to do
well for the sake of every one concerned in the expedition. Hardly had we
been going for an hour
when Socks went dead lame. This was a bad shock, for Quan had for a
full week
been the same. We had thought that our troubles in this direction were
over.
Socks must have hurt himself on some of the sharp ice. We had to go on,
and I
trust that in a few days he will be all right. I shall not start from
our depot
at Hut Point until he is better or until I know actually what is going
to
happen. The lameness of a pony in our present situation is a serious
thing. If
we had eight, or even six, we could adjust matters more easily, but
when we are
working to the bare ounce it is very serious. At 1 P.M. we
halted and fed the
ponies. As we sat close to them on the sledge Grisi suddenly lashed
out, and
striking the sledge with his hoof, struck Adams just below the knee.
Three
inches higher and the blow would have shattered his knee-cap and ended
his
chance of going on. As it was the bone was almost exposed, and he was
in great
pain, but said little about it. We went on and at 2.30 P.M. arrived at
the
sledges which had gone on by motor yesterday, just as the car came
along after
having dragged the other sledges within a quarter of a mile of the
Tongue. I
took on one sledge, and Day started in rather soft snow with the other
sledges,
the car being helped by the supporting-party in the worst places.
Pressure
ridges and drift just off the Tongue prevented the car going further,
so I gave
the sledge Quan was dragging to Adams, who was leading Chinaman, and
went back
for the other. We said good-bye to Day, and he went back, with
Priestley and
Brocklehurst helping him, for his foot was still very weak. We got to the
south side of Glacier
Tongue at 4 P.M., and after a cup of tea started to grind up the maize
in the
depot. It was hard work, but we each took turns at the crusher, and by
8 P.M.
had ground sufficient maize for the journey. It is now 11 P.M., and a
high warm
sun is shining down, the day calm and clear. We had hoosh at 9 P.M.
Adams' leg
is very stiff and sore. The horses are fairly quiet, but Quan has begun
his old
tricks and is biting his tether. I must send for wire rope if this goes
on. At last we are
out on the long
trail, after four years' thought and work. I pray that we may be
successful,
for my heart has been so much in this. There are
numbers of seals lying
close to our camp. They are nearly all females, and will soon have
young.
Erebus is emitting three distinct columns of steam to-day, and the
fumaroles on
the old crater can be seen plainly. It is a mercy that Adams is better
to-night. I cannot imagine what he would have done if he had been
knocked out
for the southern journey, his interest in the expedition has been so
intense.
Temperature plus 2° Fahr., distance for the day, 14½ miles. October 30.
At Hut Point. Another gloriously fine day. We started away for Hut
Point at
10.30 A.M., leaving the supporting-party to finish grinding the maize.
The
ponies were in good fettle and went away well, Socks walking without a
sledge,
while Grisi had 500 lb., Quan 430 lb., and Chinaman 340 lb. Socks seems
better
to-day. It is a wonderful change to get up in the morning and put on
ski-boots
without any difficulty, and to handle cooking vessels without " burning
" one's fingers on the frozen metal. I was glad to see all the ponies
so
well, for there had been both wind and drift during the night. Quan
seems to
take a delight in biting his tether when any one is looking, for I put
my head
out of the tent occasionally during the night to see if they were all
right,
and directly I did so Quan started to bite his rope. At other times
they were
all quiet. We crossed one
crack that gave us a
little trouble, and at 1.30 P.M. reached Castle Rock, travelling at one
mile
and three-quarters per hour. There I changed my sledge, taking on
Marshall's
sledge with Quan, for Grisi was making hard work of it, the surface
being very
soft in places. Quan pulled 500 lb. just as easily and at 3 P.M. we
reached Hut
Point, tethered the ponies, and had tea. There was a slight north wind.
At 5
P.M. the supporting-party came up. We have decided to sleep in the hut,
but the
supporting-party are sleeping in the tent at the very spot where the Discovery wintered six years ago.
To-morrow I am going back to the Tongue for the rest of the fodder. The
supporting-party elected to sleep out because it is warmer, but we of
the
southern party will not have a solid roof over our heads for some
months to
come, so will make the most of it. We swept the débris
out. Wild killed a seal for fresh meat and washed the liver
at the seal hole, so to-morrow we will have a good feed. Half a tin of
jam is a
small thing for one man to eat when he has a sledging appetite, and we
are
doing our share, as when we start there will be no more of these
luxuries.
Adams' leg is better, but stiff. Our march was nine and a half miles
to-day. It
is now 10 P.M. October 31.
This day started with a dull snowy appearance, which soon developed
into a
snowstorm, but a mild one with little drift. I wanted to cross to
Glacier
Tongue with Quan, Grisi, and Chinaman. During the
morning we readjusted our
provision weights and unpacked the bags. In the afternoon it cleared,
and at
3.30 P.M. we got under way, Quan pulling our sleeping equipment. We
covered the
eight miles and a half to Glacier Tongue in three hours, and as I found
no
message from the hut, nor the gear I had asked to be sent down, I
concluded it
was blowing there also, and so decided to walk on after dinner. I
covered the
twelve miles in three hours, arriving at Cape Royds at 11.30, and had
covered
the twenty-three miles between Hut Point and Cape Royds in six hours,
marching
time. They were surprised to see me, and were glad to hear that Adams
and Socks
were better. I turned in at 2 A.M. for a few hours' sleep. It had been
blowing
hard with thick drift, so the motor had not been able to start for
Glacier
Tongue. On my way to Cape Royds I noticed several seals with young
ones,
evidently just born. Murray tells me that the temperature has been plus
22°
Fahr. THE SOUTHERN PARTY MARCHING INTO THE WHITE UNKNOWN November 1.
Had breakfast at 6 A.M., and Murray came on the car with me, Day
driving. There
was a fresh easterly wind. We left Cape Royds at 8 A.M., and arrived
off
Inaccessible Island at twenty minutes past eight, having covered a
distance of
eight miles. The car was running very well. Then off Tent Island we
left the
car, and hauled the sledge, with the wire rope, &c., round to
our camp off
Glacier Tongue. Got under way at 10 A.M., and reached Hut Point at 2
P.M., the
ponies pulling 500 and 550 lb. each. Grisi bolted with his sledge, but
soon
stopped. The ponies pulled very well, with a bad light and a bad
surface. We
arranged the packing of the sledges in the afternoon, but we are held
up
because of Socks. His foot is seriously out of order, It is almost a
disaster,
for we want every pound of hauling power. This evening it is snowing
hard, with
no wind. Adams' leg is much better. Wild noticed a seal giving birth to
a pup.
The baby measured 3 ft. 10 in. in length, and weighed 50 lb. I turned
in early
to-night, for I had done thirty-nine miles in the last twenty-four
hours. November 2.
Dull and snowy during the early hours of to-day. When we awoke we found
that
Quan had bitten through his tether and played havoc with the maize and
other
fodder. Directly he saw me coming down the ice-foot, he started off,
dashing
from one sledge to another, tearing the bags to pieces and trampling
the food
out. It was ten minutes before we caught him. Luckily one sledge of
fodder was
untouched. Ho pranced round, kicked up his heels, and showed that it
was a deliberate
piece of destructiveness on his part, for he had eaten his fill. His
distended
appearance was obviously the result of many pounds of maize. In the
afternoon three of the ponies
hauled the sledges with their full weights across the junction of the
sea and
the Barrier ice, and in spite of the soft snow they pulled splendidly.
We are
now all ready for a start the first thing to-morrow. Socks seems much
better,
and not at all lame. The sun is now (9 P.M.) shining gloriously, and
the wind
has dropped, all auguring for a fine day to-morrow. The performance of
the
ponies was most satisfactory, and if they will only continue so for a
month, it
will mean a lot to us. Adams' leg is nearly all right. NEW LAND. THE PARTY ASCENDED MOUNT HOPE AND SIGHTED THE GREAT GLACIER, UP WHICH THEY MARCHED THROUGH THE GAP. THE MAIN BODY OF THE GLACIER JOINS THE BARRIER FURTHER TO THE LEFT We picked up
the other sledges at
the Barrier junction, and Brocklehurst photographed us all, with our
sledge-flags flying and th Queen's Union Jack. At 10.50 we left the sea
ice,
and instead of finding the Barrier surface better, discovered that the
snow was
even softer than earlier in the day. The ponies pulled magnificently,
and the
supporting-party toiled on painfully in their wake. Every hour the pony
leaders
changed places with the sledge-haulers. At 1 P.M. the advance-party
with the
ponies pitched camp and tethered out the ponies, and soon lunch was
under way,
consisting of tea with plasmon, plasmon biscuits, and cheese. At 2.30
we struck
camp, the supporting-party with the man-sledge going on in advance,
while the
others with the ponies did the camp work. By 4 P.M. the surface had
improved in
places, so that the men did not break through the crust so often, but
it was
just as hard work as ever for the ponies. The weather kept beautifully
fine, with
a slight south-east wind. The weather sides of the ponies were quite
dry, but
their lee sides were frosted with congealed sweat. Whenever it came to
our turn
to pull, we perspired freely. As the supporting-party are not
travelling as
fast as the ponies, we have decided to take them on only for two more
days, and
then we of the Southern Party will carry the remainder of the pony feed
from
their sledge on our backs. So to-morrow morning we will depot nearly
100 lb. of
oil and provisions, which will lighten the load on the
supporting-party's
sledge a good deal. We camped at 6
P.M., and, after
feeding the ponies, had our dinner, consisting of pemmican, emergency
ration,
plasmon biscuits and plasmon cocoa, followed by a smoke, the most ideal
smoke a
man could wish for after a day's sledging. As there is now plenty of
biscuit to
spare, we gave the gallant little ponies a good feed of them after
dinner. They
are now comfortably standing in the sun, with the temperature plus 14°
Fahr.,
and occasionally pawing the snow. Grisi has dug a large hole already in
the
soft surface. We have been steering a south-east course all day,
keeping well
to the north of White Island to avoid the crevasses. Our distance for
the day
is 12 miles (statute) 300 yards. November 4.
Started at 8.30 this morning; fine weather, but bad light. Temperature
plus 9°
Fahr. We wore goggles, as already we are feeling the trying light. The
supporting-party started first, and with an improved surface during the
morning
they kept ahead of the ponies, who constantly broke through the crust.
As soon
as we passed the end of White Island, the surface became softer, and it
was
trying work for both men and ponies. However, we did 9 miles 500 yards
(statute) up to 1 P.M., the supporting-party going the whole time
without being
relieved. Their weights
had been reduced by
nearly 100 lb., as we depoted that amount of oil and provision last
night. In
the afternoon the surface was still softer, and when we came to camp at
6 P.M.
the ponies were plainly tired. The march for the day was 16 miles, 500
yards
(statute), over fourteen miles geographical, with a bad surface, so we
have
every reason to be pleased with the ponies. The supporting-party pulled
hard.
The cloud rolled away from Erebus this evening, and it is now warm,
clear, and
bright to the north, but dark to the south. I am steering about
east-south-east
to avoid the crevasses off White Island, but to-morrow we go
south-east. We
fixed our position to-night from bearings, and find that we are
thirty-four
miles south of Cape Royds. Every one is fit and well. CAPE BARNE AND INACCESSIBLE ISLAND BY MOONLIGHT November 6.
Lying in our sleeping-bags all day except when out feeding the ponies,
for it
has been blowing a blizzard, with thick drift, from south by west. It
is very
trying to be held up like this, for each day means the consumption of
40 lb. of
pony feed alone. We only had a couple of biscuits each for lunch, for I
can see
that we must retrench at every set-back if we are going to have enough
food to
carry us through. We started with ninety-one days' food, but with
careful
management we can make it spin out to 110 days. If we have not done the
job in
that time it is God's will. Some of the supporting-party did not turn
out for
any meal during the last twenty-four hours. Quan and Chinaman have
taken their
feeds constantly, but Socks and Grisi not so well. They all like Maujee
ration
and eat that up before touching the maize. They have been very quiet,
standing
tails to the blizzard, which has been so thick that at times we could
not see
them from the peep-holes of our tents. There are great drifts all round
the
tents, and some of the sledges are buried. This evening about 5.30 the
weather
cleared a bit and the wind dropped. When getting out the feed-boxes at
6 P.M. I
could see White Island and the Bluff, so I hope that to-morrow will be
fine.
The barometer has been steady all day at 28.60 in., with the
temperature up to
18° Fahr., so it is quite warm, and in our one-man sleeping-bags each
of us has
a little home, where he can read and write and look at the penates and
lares
brought with him. I read Much Ado About Nothing during the morning. The
surface
of the Barrier is better, for the wind has blown away a great deal of
the soft
snow, and we will, I trust, be able to see any crevasses before we are
on to
them. This is our fourth day out from Hut Point, and we are only twenty
miles
south. We must do better than this if we are to make much use of the
ponies. I
would not mind the blizzard so much if we had only to consider
ourselves, for
we can save on the food, whereas the ponies must be fed full. November 7.
Another disappointing day. We got up at 5 A.M. to breakfast, so as to
be in
time to start at 8 A.M. We cleared all the drift off our sledges, and,
unstowing them, examined the runners, finding them to be in splendid
condition.
This work, with the assistance of the supporting-party, took us till
8.30 A.M.
Shortly afterwards we got under way, saying good-bye to the
supporting-party,
who are to return to-day. As we drew away, the ponies pulling hard, our
comrades gave us three cheers. The weather was thick and overcast, with
no
wind. Part of White Island could be seen, and Observation Hill, astern,
but
before us lay a dead white wall, with nothing, even in the shape of a
cloud, to
guide our steering. Almost immediately after we left we crossed a
crevasse, and
before we had gone half a mile we found ourselves in a maze of them,
only
detecting their presence by the ponies breaking through the crust and
saving
themselves, or the man leading a pony putting his foot through. The
first one
Marshall crossed with Grisi was 6 ft. wide, and when I looked down
there was
nothing to be seen but a black yawning void, Just after this, I halted
Quan on
the side of one, as I thought in the uncertain light, but I found that
we were
standing on the crust in the centre, so I very gingerly unharnessed him
from
the sledge and got him across. Then the sledge, with our three months'
provisions, was pulled out of danger. Following this, Adams crossed
another
crevasse, and Chinaman got his forefoot into the hole at the side. I,
following
with Quan, also got into difficulties, and so I decided that it was too
risky
to proceed, and we camped between two large crevasses. We picketed the
ponies
out and pitched one tent, to wait till the light became better, for we
were
courting disaster by proceeding in that weather. Thus ended our day's
march of
under a mile, for about 1 P.M. it commenced to snow, and the wind
sprang up
from the south-west with drift. We pitched our second tent and had
lunch,
consisting of a pot of tea, some chocolate and two biscuits each. The
temperature was plus 12° Fahr. at noon. It blew a
little in the afternoon,
and I hope to find it clear away this pall of dead white stratus that
stops us.
The ponies were in splendid trim for pulling this morning, but, alas 1
we had
to stop. Grisi and Socks did not eat up their food well at lunch or
dinner. The
temperature this evening is plus 9° Fahr., and the ponies feel chilly.
Truly
this work is one demanding the greatest exercise of patience, for it is
more
than trying to have to sit here and watch the time going by, knowing
that each
day lessens our stock of food. The supporting-party got under way about
9.30 A.M.,
and we could see them dwindling to a speck in the north. They will, no
doubt,
be at Hut Point in a couple of days. We are now at last quite on our
own
resources, and as regards comfort in the tents are very well off, for
with only
two men in each tent, there is ample room. Adams is sharing one with
me, whilst
Marshall and Wild have the other. Wild is cook this week, so they keep
the
cooker and the primus lamp in their tent, and we go across to meals,
after
first feeding the ponies. Next week Adams will be cook, so the cooking
will be done
in the tent I am in. We will also shift about so that we will take
turns with
each other as tent-mates. On the days on which we are held up by
weather we
read, and I can only trust that these days may not be many. I am just
finishing
reading The Taming ol the Shrew. I have Shakespeare's Comedies,
Marshall has
Borrow's "The Bible in Spain," Adams has Arthur Young's " ravels
in France," and Wild has "Sketches by Boz." When we have
finished we will change round. Our allowance of tobacco is very
limited, and on
days like these it disappears rapidly, for our anxious minds are
relieved
somewhat by a smoke. In order to economise my cigarettes, which are my
luxury,
I whittled out a holder from a bit of bamboo to-day, and so get a
longer smoke,
and also avoid the paper sticking to my lips, which have begun to crack
already
from the hot metal pot and the cold air. NOTE. The
difficulties of travelling
over snow and ice in a bad light are very great. When the light is
diffused by
clouds or mist, it casts no shadows on the dead white surface, which
consequently appears to the eye to be uniformly level. Often as we
marched, the
sledges would be brought up all standing by a sastrugus, or snow mound,
canted
by the wind, and we would be lucky if we were not tripped up ourselves.
Small
depressions would escape the eye altogether, and when we thought that
we were
marching along on a level surface, we would suddenly step down two or
three
feet. The strain on the eyes under these conditions is very great, and
it is
when the sun is covered and the weather is thickish that snow blindness
is
produced. Snow blindness, with which we all became acquainted during
the
southern journey, is a very painful complaint. The first sign of the
approach
of the trouble is running at the nose; then the sufferer begins to see
double,
and his vision gradually becomes blurred. The more painful symptoms
appear very
soon. The blood-vessels of the eyes swell, making one feel as though
sand had
got in under the lids, and then the eyes begin to water freely and
gradually
close up. The best method of relief is to drop some cocaine into the
eye, and
then apply a powerful astringent, such as sulphate of zinc, in order to
reduce
the distended blood-vessels. The only way to guard against an attack is
to wear
goggles the whole time, so that the eyes may not be exposed to the
strain
caused by the reflection of the light from all quarters. These goggles
are made
so that the violet rays are cut off, these rays being the most
dangerous, but
in warm weather, when one is perspiring on account of exertion with the
sledges, the glasses fog, and it becomes necessary to take them off
frequently
in order to wipe them. The goggles we used combined red and green
glasses, and
so gave a yellow tint to everything and greatly subdued the light. When
we
removed them, the glare from the surrounding whiteness was intense, and
the
only relief was to get inside one of the tents, which were made of
green
material, very restful to the eyes. We noticed that during the spring
journey,
when the temperature was very low and the sun was glaring on us, we did
not
suffer from snow blindness. The glare of the light reflected from the
snow on
bright days places a very severe strain on the eyes, for the rays of
the sun
are flashed back from millions of crystals. The worst days, as far as
snow
blindness was concerned, were when the sun was obscured, so that the
light came
equally from every direction, and the temperature was comparatively
high. November 8.
Drawn blank again In our bags all day, while outside the snow is
drifting hard
and blowing freshly at times. The temperature was plus 8° Fahr. at
noon. The
wind has not been really strong; if it had been I believe that this
weather
would have been over sooner. It is a sore trial to one's hopes and
patience to
lie and watch the drift on the tent-side, and to know that our valuable
pony
food is going, and this without benefiting the animals themselves.
Indeed,
Socks and Grisi have not been eating well, and the hard maize does not
agree
with them. At lunch we had only a couple of biscuits and some
chocolate, and
used our oil to boil some Maujee ration for the horses, so that they
had a hot
hoosh. They all ate it readily, which is a comfort. This standing for
four days
in drift with 24° of frost is not good for them, and we are anxiously
looking
for finer weather. To-night it is clearer, and we could see the horizon
and
some of the crevasses. We seem to be in a regular nest of them. The
occupants
of the other tent have discovered that it is pitched on the edge of a
previously unseen one. We had a hot hoosh to-night, consisting of
pemmican,
with emergency ration and the cocoa. This warmed us up, for to lie from
breakfast time at 6 A.M. for twelve or thirteen hours without hot food
in this
temperature is chilly work. If only we could get under way and put some
good
marches in, we would feel more happy. It is 750 miles as the crow flies
from
our winter quarters to the Pole, and we have done only fifty-one miles
as yet.
But still the worst will turn to the best, I doubt not. That a polar
explorer
needs a large stock of patience in his equipment there is no denying.
The sun
is showing thin and pale through the drift. this evening, and the wind
is more
gusty, so we may have it really fine to-morrow. I read some of
Shakespeare's
comedies to-day. November 9.
A different story to-day. When we woke up at 4.30 A.M. it was fine,
calm, and
clear, such a change from the last four days. We got breakfast at 5
A.M., and
then dug the sledges out of the drift. After this we four walked out to
find a.
track amongst the crevasses, but unfortunately they could only be
detected by
probing with our ice-axes, and these disclosed all sorts, from narrow
cracks to
great ugly chasms with no bottom visible. A lump of snow thrown down
one would
make no noise, so the bottom must have been very far below. The general
direction was south-east and north-west, but some curved round to the
south and
some to the east. There was nothing for it but to trust to Providence,
for we
had to cross them somewhere. At 8.30 A.M. we got under way, the ponies
not
pulling very well, for they have lost condition in the blizzard and
were stiff.
We got over the first few crevasses without difficulty, then all of a
sudden
Chinaman went down a crack which ran parallel to our course. Adams
tried to
pull him out and he struggled gamely, and when Wild and I, who were
next, left
our sledges and hauled along Chinaman's sledge, it gave him more scope,
and he
managed to get on to the firm ice, only just in time, for three feet
more and
it would have been all up with the southern journey. The three-foot
crack
opened out into a great fathomless chasm, and down that would have gone
the
horse, all our cooking gear and biscuits and half the oil, and probably
Adams
as well. But when things seem the worst they turn to the best, for that
was the
last crevasse we encountered, and with a gradually improving surface,
though
very soft at times, we made fair headway. We camped for lunch at 12.40
P.M.,
and the ponies ate fairly well. Quan is pulling 660 lb., and had over
700 lb.
till lunch; Grisi has 590 lb., Chinaman 570 lb., and Socks 600 lb. In
the
afternoon the surface further improved, and at 6 P.M. we camped, having
done 14
miles 600 yards, statute. The Bluff is showing clear, and also Castle
Rock
miraged up astern of us. White Island is also clear, but a stratus
cloud
overhangs Erebus, Terror, and Discovery.
At 6.20 P.M. we suddenly heard a deep rumble, lasting about five
seconds, that
made the air and the ice vibrate. It seemed to come from the eastward,
and
resembled the sound and hakl the effect of heavy guns firing. We
conjecture
that it was due to some large mass of the Barrier breaking away, and
the
distance must be at least fifty miles from where we are. It was
startling, to
say the least of it. To-night we boiled some Maujee ration for the
ponies, and
they took this feed well. It has a delicious smell, and we ourselves
would have
enjoyed it. Quan is now engaged in the pleasing occupation of gnawing
his tether
rope. I tethered him up by the hind leg to prevent him attacking this
particular thong, but he has found out that by lifting his hind-leg he
can
reach the rope, so I must get out and put a nose-bag on him. The
temperature is
now plus 5° Fahr„ but it feels much warmer, for there is a dead calm
and the
sun is shining. A QUIET EVENING ON THE BARRIER. |