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CHAPTER XII BEYOND ALL FORMER FOOTSTEPS NOVEMBER 10 TO DECEMBER 4 Steady Progress: The Sighting of New Land November
11.
It was 8.40 before we got under way this morning, for during the night
the
temperature dropped well below zero, and it was minus 12° when we got
up and
found our finnesko and all our gear frozen hard, just like spring
sledging
times. We had to unpack the sledges and scrape the runners, for the sun
had
melted the snow on the upper surfaces, and the water had run down and
frozen
hard during the night on the under sides. The surface was again
terribly soft,
but there were patches of hard sastrugi beneath, and on one of these
Quan must
have stepped, for to our great anxiety he suddenly went lame about 11
A.M. I
thought it was just the balling of the snow on his feet, but on
scraping this
off he still was lame. Fortunately, however, he improved greatly and
was
practically all right after lunch. During the night, the snow always
balls on
the ponies' feet, and it is one of our regular jobs to scrape it off,
before we
harness up in the morning. The snow was not so thick on the surface in
the
afternoon, only about 5 in., and we got on fairly well. The Bluff is
now
sixteen miles to the north-west of us, and all the well-known land is
clear,
Erebus sending out a huge volume of steam, that streams away to the
south-west
right past Mount Discovery, fifty
miles from its crater. Again this afternoon we passed an Adelie penguin
track.
The bird was making the same course as the one we had passed before. At
6.30
P.M. we camped, having done fifteen statute miles. After dinner we got
bearings
which put us forty-seven miles from our depot. I do trust that the
weather will
hold up till we reach it. It is cold to-night writing, the temperature
being
minus 9° Fahr. The land to the south-south-west is beautifully clear. November
13.
No diary yesterday, for I had a bad attack of snow-blindness, and am
only a bit
better to-night. We did a good march yesterday of over fifteen miles
over fair
surface, and again to-day did fifteen miles, but the going was softer.
The
ponies have been a trouble again. I found Quan and Chinaman enjoying
the
former's rug. They have eaten all the lining. The weather has been
beautifully
fine, but the temperature down to 12° below zero. The others' eyes are
all
right. Wild, who has been suffering, has been better to-day.
Snow-blindness is
a particularly unpleasant thing. One begins by seeing double, then the
eyes
feel full of grit; this makes them water and eventually one cannot see
at all.
All yesterday afternoon, though I was wearing goggles, the water kept
running
out of my eyes, and, owing to the low temperature, it froze on my
beard.
However, the weather is beautiful, and we are as happy as can be, with
good
appetites, too good in fact for the amount of food we are allowing
ourselves.
We are on short rations, but we will have horse meat in addition when
the
ponies go under. We have saved enough food to last us from our first
depot into
the Bluff, where, on the way back, we will pick up another depot that
is to be
laid out by Joyce during January next. I trust we will pick up the
depot
to-morrow night and it will be a relief, for it is a tiny speck in this
snowy
plain, and is nearly sixty miler from the nearest land. It is much the
same as
picking up a buoy in the North Sea with only distant mountains for
bearings. We
are now clear of the pressure round the Bluff, and the travelling
should be
good until we reach the depot. On the spring journey we got into the
crevasses
off the Bluff, these crevasses being due to the movement of the
ice-sheet
impinging against the long arm of the Bluff reaching out to the
eastward. Close
in the pressure is much more marked, the whole surface of the Barrier
rising
into hillocks and splitting into chasms. When the summer sun plays on
these and
the wind sweeps away the loose snow, a very slippery surface is
presented, and
the greatest care has to be exercised to prevent the sledges skidding
into the
pits, often over 100 ft. deep. As one gets further away from the area
of
disturbance the ridges flatten out, the pits disappear, and the
crevasses
become cracks. We are now on to level going, clear of any dangers. November
14.
Another beautiful day, but with a low temperature (minus 7° Fahr. at 6
a.m.).
During the morning there was a wind from the west-south-west, bitterly
cold on
our faces and burst lips, but the sun was warm on our backs. The ponies
pulled
well, and in spite of somewhat deep snow they got on very well. We
stopped at
noon for bearings, and to get the sun's altitude for latitude, and at
lunch
worked out our position. We expected to see the depot to-night or
to-morrow
morning, but during the afternoon, when we halted for a spell, we found
that
our "ready use" tin of kerosene had dropped off a sledge, so Adams
ran back three miles and found it. This caused a delay, and we camped
at 6 P.M.
We were just putting the position on the chart after dinner when Wild,
who was
outside looking through the Goertz glasses, shouted out that he could
see the
depot, and we rushed out. There were the flag and sledge plainly to be
seen through
the glasses. It is an immense relief to us, for there is stored at the
depot
four days' pony feed and a gallon of oil. We will sleep happily
to-night. The
Barrier surface now is covered with huge sastrugi, rounded off and
running
west-south-west and east-north-west, with soft snow between. We have
never seen
the surface alike for two consecutive days. The Barrier is as wayward
and as
changeful as the sea. November
15.
Another beautiful day. We broke camp at 8 A.M., and reached our depot
at 9.20 A.M.
We found everything intact, the flag waving merrily in the breeze, the
direction of which was about west-south-west. We camped there and at
once
proceeded to redistribute weights and to parcel our provisions to be
left
there. We found that we had saved enough food to allow for three days'
rations,
which ought to take us into the Bluff on our return, so we made up a
bag of
provisions and added a little oil to the tin we had been using from,
leaving
half a gallon to take us the fifty odd miles to the Bluff on the way
back. We
then depoted our spare gear and finnesko, and our tin of sardines and
pot of
black currant jam. We had intended these provisions for Christmas Day,
but the
weight is too much; every ounce is of importance. We took on the maize,
and the
ponies are now pulling 449 lb. each. Quan was pulling 469 lb. before
the depot
was reached, so he had nothing added to his load. All this arranging
took time,
and it was nearly noon before we had finished. We took an observation
for
latitude and variation, and found the latitude to be 79° 36' South, and
the
variation 155° East. Had lunch at noon and started due south at 1.15
P.M., the
ponies pulling well. As the afternoon went on the surface of the
Barrier
altered to thick, crusty snow, with long rounded sastrugi about 4 ft.
high,
almost looking like small undulations, running south-west to
north-west, with
small sastrugi on top running west and east. Camped at 6 P.M., having
done 12
miles 1500 yards (statute) to-day. There are some high, stratified,
light clouds
in the sky, the first clouds we have had for nearly a week. The sun
now, at 9
P.M., is beautifully warm, though the air temperature is minus 2° Fahr.
It is
dead calm. We are going to build a snow mound at each camp as a guide
to our
homeward track, and as our camps will only be seven miles apart, these
marks
ought to help us. The mystery of the Barrier grips us, and we long to
know what
lies in the unknown to the south. This we may do with good fortune in
another
fortnight. NOTE. I wrote
that the provisions
left at the depot would suffice for three days, but as a matter of fact
there
was not more than a two days' supply. We felt that we ought to take on
every
ounce of food that we could, and that if we got back to the depot we
would be
able to manage as far as the Bluff all right. During the winter we had
thought
over the possibility of making the mounds as a guide for the return
march, and
had concluded that though they would entail extra work, we might be
well repaid
if we picked up only one or two of them at critical times. We had with
us two
shovels, and ten minutes' work was sufficient to raise a mound 6 or 7
ft. high.
We wondered whether the mounds would disappear under the influence of
wind and
sun, and our tracks remain, whether the tracks would disappear and the
mounds
remain, whether both tracks and mounds would disappear, or whether both
would
remain. As we were not keeping in towards the land, but were making a
bee-line
for the south, it was advisable to neglect no precaution, and as events
turned
out, the mounds were most useful. They remained after the sledge tracks
had
disappeared, and they were a very great comfort to us during the
journey back
from our farthest south point. November
16.
We started again this morning in gloriously fine weather, the
temperature minus
15° Fahr. (down to minus 25° Fahr. during the night). The ponies pulled
splendidly. All the western mountains stood up, miraged into the forms
of
castles. Even the Bluff could be seen in the far distance, changed into
the semblance
of a giant keep. Before starting, which we did at 7.40 A.M., we made a
mound of
snow, 6 ft. high, as a guide to us on our homeward way, and as it was
built on
a large sastrugi, we saw it for two and a half statute miles after
starting. At
twenty minutes to twelve, we halted for latitude observations, and
found that
we had reached 79° 50' South. After lunch the surface changed somewhat,
but the
going was fairly good, in fact we covered 17 miles 200 yards (statute),
a
record day for us. This evening it is cloudy, high cumulus going from
south-east to north-west. The temperature to-night is minus 5° Fahr.,
but it
being dead calm we feel quite warm. A hot sun during the day dried our
reindeer
skin sleeping-bags, the water, or rather ice, all drying out of them,
so we
sleep in dry bags again. It has been a wonderful and successful week,
so
different to this time six years ago, when I was toiling along five
miles a day
over the same ground. To-night one can see the huge mountain range to
the south
of Barne Inlet. In order to further economise food we are saving three
lumps of
sugar each every day, so in time we will have a fair stock. The great
thing is
to advance our food-supply as far south as possible before the ponies
give out.
Every one is in splendid health, eyes all right again, and only minor
troubles,
such as split lips, which do not allow us to laugh. Wild steered all
day, and
at every hourly halt I put the compass down to make the course we are
going
straight as a die to the south. Chinaman, or "The Vampire," as Adams
calls him, is not so fit; he is stiff in the knees and has to be hauled
along.
Quan, alias "Blossom," is Al, but one cannot leave him for a moment,
otherwise he would have his harness chewed up. Within the last week he
has had
the greater part of a horse-cloth, about a fathom of rope, several
pieces of
leather, and odds and ends such as a nose-bag buckle, but his digestion
is
marvellous, and he seems to thrive on his strange diet. He would rather
eat a
yard of creosoted rope than his maize and Maujee, indeed he often, in
sheer
wantonness, throws his food all over the snow. November
17.
A dull day when we started at 9.50 A.M., but the mountains abeam were
in sight
till noon. The weather then became completely overcast, and the light
most difficult
to steer in; a dead white wall was what we seemed to be marching to,
and there
was no direct light to cast even the faintest shadow on the sastrugi. I
steered
from noon to 1 P.M., and from lunch till 6 P.M., but the course was
most
erratic, and we had to stop every now and then to put the compass down
to
verify our course and alter it if necessary. Our march for the day was
16 miles
200 yard (statute) through a bad surface, the ponies sinking in up to
their
hocks. This soft surface is similar to that we experienced last trip
south, for
the snow had a crust easily broken through and about 6 in. down an
air-space,
then similar crusts and air-spaces in layers. It was trying work for
the
ponies, but they all did splendidly in their own particular way. Old "
Blossom " plods stolidly through it; Chinaman flounders rather
painfully,
for he is old and stiff nowadays; Grisi and Socks take the soft places
with a
rush I but all get through the day's work and feed up at night, though
Quan
evinces disgust at not having more Maujee ration and flings his maize
out of
his nosebag. One wonders each night what trouble they will get into.
This
morning, on turning out, we found Grisi lying down unable to get up. He
had got
to the end of his tether, and could not draw back his leg. He was
shivering
with cold, though the temperature was only minus 5°. To-day we had a
plus
temperature, for the first time since leaving — plus 9° Fahr. at noon,
arid
plus 5° Fahr. at 6 P.M. The pall of cloud no doubt acts as a blanket,
and so we
were warm, too warm in fact for marching. November
18.
Started at 8 A.M. in clearer weather, and the sun remained visible all
day,
though during the morning it was snowing from the south, and made the
steering
very difficult. The surface has been simply awful. We seem to have
arrived at a
latitude where there is no wind and the snow remains where it falls,
for we
were sinking in well over our ankles, and the poor ponies are having a
most
trying time. They break through the crust on the surface and flounder
up to
their hocks, and at each step they have to pull their feet out through
the
brittle crust. It is telling more on Chinaman than on the others, and
he is
going slowly. The chafing of the snow crust on his fetlocks has galled
them, so
we will have to shoot him at the next depot in about three days' time.
The
ponies are curious animals. We give them full meals, and yet they
prefer to
gnaw at any odd bits of rope. Quan got my jacket in his teeth this
morning as I
was scraping the snow off his hind feet, and I had to get out last
night to
stop Socks biting and swallowing lumps out of Quan's tail. If we had
thought
that they would have been up to these games, we would have had a longer
wire to
tether them, so as to keep them apart. It is possible that we have
reached the
windless area around the Pole, for the Barrier is a dead, smooth, white
plain,
weird beyond description, and having no land in sight, we feel such
tiny specks
in the immensity around us. Overhead this afternoon, when the weather
cleared, were
wonderful lines of clouds, radiating from the south-west, travelling
very fast
to the north-east. It seems as though we were in some other world, and
yet the
things that concern us most for the moment are trivial, such as split
lips and
big appetites. Already the daily meals seem all too short, and we
wonder what
it will be like later on, when we were really hungry. I have had that
experience once, and my companions will soon have again with me. All
the time
we are moving south to our wished-for goal, and each day we feel that
another
gain has been made. We did 15 miles 500 yards to-day. November
19.
Started at 8.15 this morning with a fresh southerly breeze and drift.
The
temperature was plus 2° Fahr., and this was the temperature all day,
making it
cold travelling, but good for the ponies, who, poor beasts, had to
plough
through a truly awful surface, sinking in 8 or 10 in. at every step.
This does
not seem very deep, but when one goes on hour after hour it is a strain
on man
and horse, for we have to hold the ponies up as they stumble along. In
spite of
the surface and the wind and drift, we covered 15 miles 200 yards
(statute) by
6 P.M. and were glad to camp, for our beards and faces were coated in
ice, and
our helmets had frozen stiff on to our faces. We got sights for
latitude at
noon, and found that we were in latitude 80° 32' South. On the last
journey I
was not in that latitude till December 16, though we left Hut Point on
November
2, a day earlier than we did this time. The ponies have truly done
well. I
wrote yesterday that we seemed to be in a windless area, but to-day
alters that
opinion. The sastrugi are all pointing clearly due south, and if we
have the
wind on our way back it will be a great help. The same radiant points
in the
clouds south-east to north-west were visible again to-day, and at times
when it
cleared somewhat a regular nimbus cloud, similar to the rain clouds in
the
"doldrums," could be seen. At the base of the converging point of the
south-east part of cloud there seemed to rise other clouds to meet the
main
body. The former trended directly from the horizon at an angle of 30°
to meet
the main body, and did not seem to be more than a few miles off. The
drift on
the Barrier surface was piled up into heaps of very fine snow, with the
smallest grains, and on encountering these the sledges ran heavily. The
crust
that has formed, when broken through, discloses loose-grained snow, and
the
harder crust, about 8 in. down, is almost even. I suppose that the top
8 in.
represents the year's snowfall. November 20.
Started at 8.55 A.M. in dull, overcast weather again, but the sun broke
through
during the morning, so we had something to steer by. The surface has
been the
worst we have encountered so far, terribly soft, but we did 15 miles
800 yards
(statute) for the day. The latter part of the afternoon was better. It
seems to
savour of repetition to write each day of the heavy going and the soft
surface,
but these factors play a most important part in our daily work, and it
causes
us a great deal of speculation as to what we will eventually find as we
get
further south. The whole place and conditions seem so strange and so
unlike
anything else in the world in our experience, that one cannot describe
them in
fitting words. At one moment one thinks of Coleridge's "Ancient
Mariner":
"Alone, alone; all, all alone, alone on a wide, wide sea," and then
when the mazy clouds spring silently from either hand and drift quickly
across
our zenith, not followed by any wind, it seems uncanny. There comes a
puff of
wind from the north, another from the south, and anon one from the east
or
west, seeming to obey no law, acting on erratic impulses. It is as
though we
were truly at the world's end, and were bursting in on the birthplace
of the
clouds and the nesting-home of the four winds, and one has a feeling
that we
mortals are being watched with a jealous eye by the forces of nature.
To add to
these weird impressions that seem to grow on one in the apparently
limitless
waste, the sun to-night was surrounded by mock suns and in the zenith
was a
bow, turning away from the great vertical circle around the sun. These
circles
and bows were the colour of the rainbow. We are all fairly tired
to-night, and
Wild is not feeling very fit, but a night's rest will do him good. The
ponies
are all fit except poor old Chinaman, and he must go to-morrow. He
cannot keep
up with the others, and the bad surface has played him out. The
temperature is
zero Fahr. November 21.
Started at 7.30 A.M. as we had to come to camp early to-night, and we
wanted to
get a good latitude observation at noon. Although we got away early,
however,
all morning we were steering through thick weather with driving
ice-crystals,
and at noon there was no chance of getting the sun for latitude. We
came to camp
at 12.30 P.M., just as the weather cleared a little, and we could see
land on
our, right hand, but only the base of the mountains, so could not
identify
them. Chinaman came up at last, struggling painfully along, so when we
made our
depot this evening he was shot. We will use the meat to keep us out
longer, and
will save on our dried stores. The temperature at noon was only plus 8°
Fahr.,
and the little wind that there was has been extremely cold. The wind
veers
round and round the compass, and the clouds move in every direction.
The
surface of the Barrier was better to-day, but still the ponies sank in
8 in. at
least. The sastrugi point towards the south-east, this being the
direction of
the most usual wind here. This evening it cleared, and we could see
land almost
ahead, and the great mass of land abaft the beam to the north of Barne
Inlet.
Our day's march was 15 miles 450 yards. We are now south of the 81st
parallel,
and feel that we are well on the road to our wished-for goal. This is
now our
second depot, and we intend to leave about 80 lb. of pony meat, one tin
of
biscuits (27 lb.), some sugar, and one tin of oil, to see us back to
Depot A.
It is late now, for all arrangements for the depot took time. There was
a lot
of work in the arranging of the sledges for the remaining three ponies,
packing
stores, skinning Chinaman, and cutting him up, all in a low
temperature. NOTE: The
killing of the ponies was
not pleasant work, but we had the satisfaction of knowing that the
animals had
been well fed and well treated up to the last, and that they suffered
no pain.
When we had to kill a pony, we threw up a snow mound to leeward of the
camp, so
that no smell of blood could come down wind, and took the animal behind
this,
out of sight of the others. As a matter of fact, the survivors never
displayed
any interest at all in the proceedings, even the report of the revolver
used in
the killing failing to attract their attention. The sound did not
travel far on
the wide open plain. The revolver was held about 3 in. from the
forehead of the
victim and one shot was sufficient to cause instant death. The throat
of the
animal was cut immediately and the blood allowed to run away. Then
Marshall and
Wild would skin the carcase, and we took the meat off the legs,
shoulders, and
back. In the case of Chinaman the carcase was opened and the liver and
undercut
secured, but the job was such a lengthy one that we did not repeat it
in the
case of the other animals. Within a very short time after killing the
carcase
would be frozen solid, and we always tried to cut the meat up into as
small
pieces as possible before this occurred, for the cutting became very
much more
difficult after the process of freezing was complete. On the following
days,
whenever there was time to spare, we would proceed with the cutting
until we
had got all the meat ready for cooking. It was some time before we
found out
that it was better merely to warm the meat through when we wanted to
eat it,
and not attempt to cook it properly. It was fairly tender when only
warmed, but
if it were boiled it became very tough, and we would not spare enough
oil to
stew it in order to soften it thoroughly. Our supply of oil had been
cut down
very fine in order to save weight. The only meat that we cooked
thoroughly was
that from Grisi, because we found, at a later stage of the journey,
that this
meat was not good, and we thought that cooking might make it less
liable to
cause attacks of dysentery. We used the harness from the dead pony to
make
stays for the sledge which would be left at the depot. The sledge was
reared on
to its end, about 3 ft. being sunk into the snow, and a bamboo with a
black
flag stuck on the top, so that we might be able to find the little
"cache"
of food on the return journey. Stays were required lest a blizzard
should blow
down the whole erection. November
22.
A beautiful morning. We left our depot with its black flag flying on
the bamboo
lashed to a discarded sledge, stuck upright in the snow, at 8.20 A.M.
We have
now three ponies dragging 500 lb. each, and they did splendidly through
the
soft snow. The going, I am thankful to say, is getting better, and here
and
there patches of harder surface are to be met with. The outstanding
feature of
to-day's march is that we have seen new land to the south — land never
seen by
human eyes before. The land consists of great snow-clad heights rising
beyond
Mount Longstaff, and also far inland to the north of Mounts Markham.
These
heights we did not see on our journey south ..m the last expedition,
for we
were too close to the land or, rather, foothills, but now at the great
distance
we are out they can be seen plainly. It has been a beautifully clear
day, and
all the well-known mountains are clearly visible. The coast trends
about south
by east, so that we are safe for a good long way south. We camped at
noon and
got a good meridian altitude and azimuth. We found our latitude to be
81° 8'
South. In the afternoon we steered a little to the east of south, and
camped at
6 P.M. with 15 miles 250 yards (statute) to the credit of the day. This
is
good, for the ponies have a heavy load, but they are well fed. We were
rather
long at lunch camp, for we tried to pull out Adams' tooth, which has
given him
great pain, so much that he as not slept at night at all. But the tooth
broke,
and he has a bad time now: We were not equipped on this trip for
tooth-pulling.
Wild is better to-day, but fatty food is not to his taste just now, so
he had a
good feed of horse-flesh. We all liked it, for it filled us well, in
spite of
being somewhat tough. The flavour was good and it means a great saving
of our
other food. The temperature has risen to plus 7° Fahr., and the surface
of the
Barrier is good for sledge-hauling. November
23.
Our record march to-day, the distance being 17 miles 1650 yards
statute. It has
been a splendid day for marching, with a cool breeze from the south and
the sun
slightly hidden. The horses did very well indeed, and the surface has
improved,
there being fairly hard sastrugi from the south. We are gradually
rising the
splendid peaks of Longstaff and Markham. The former, from our present
bearing,
has several sharp peaks, and the land fades away in the far distance to
the
south, with numbers of peaks showing, quite new to human eyes. All the
old
familiar mountains, towards which I toiled so painfully last time I was
here,
are visible, and what a difference it is now To-night there
is a fresh wind from
what appears at this distance to be a strait between Longstaff and
Markham, and
a low drift is flying along. Wild is better to-night, but he was tired
after
the long march. We made him a cup of our emergency Oxo for lunch, and
that
bucked him up for the afternoon. He has not eaten much lately, but says
that he
feels decidedly better tonight. Marshall has just succeeded in pulling
out
Adams' tooth, so now the latter will be able to enjoy horse-meat. This
evening
we had it fried, and so saved all our other food except biscuits and
cocoa. It
is my week as cook now, and Wild is my tent companion. November 24.
Started this morning at 7.55, and made a good march of 10 miles 600
yards
(statute) up to 1 P.M., when we camped for lunch. We marched from 2.30
to 6
P.M., and camped then for the night. When we started there was a
searching
breeze in our faces, which gradually increased during the day with low
drift,
and it was blowing a summer blizzard when we camped this evening, the
temperature up to plus 17° Fahr., and the drift melting in the tent and
on all
our gear. The ponies did splendidly again, in spite of soft surface,
our day's
run being 17 miles 680 yards statute. The Barrier surface is still as
level as
a billiard table, with no sign of any undulation or rise; but if the
Barrier
shows no sign of change it is otherwise with the mountains. Each mile
shows us
new land, and most of it consists of lofty mountains, whose heights at
present
we cannot estimate. They are well over 10,000 ft. The great advantage
of being
out from the coast is now obvious, for we can see a long range of
sharp-peaked
mountains running to the westward from Mounts Markham, and forming the
south
side of Shackleton Inlet on the east side of Mounts Markham, and other
peaks
and one table-topped mountain standing away to the south between
Longstaff and
Markham. There appears to be a wide strait or inlet between Longstaff
and the
new land east of Markham. Then trending about south-east from Longstaff
is a
lofty range of mountains which we will see more closely as we move
south. I
trust that the blizzard will blow itself out to-night, so that we may
have easy
going to-morrow. Wild is much better to-day, and took his ordinary
food. We had
fried pony for dinner to-night, and raw pony frozen on the march. The
going is
very good, but we can only afford a little oil to cook up the meat for
meals. November
25.
Started at 8 A.M. this morning in fairly good weather. The wind has
gone during
the night, leaving our tents drifted up with fine snow. The land was
obscured
nearly all day, but towards the evening it cleared and we could see the
details
of the coast. There appears to be a series of inlets and capes opening
at all
angles, and with no fixed coast-line, though the lofty range of
mountains
continues to the south with a very slight trend to the eastward. The
surface of
the Barrier was very trying to-day, for the snow had no consistency and
slipped
away as one trod on it. It was not so trying for the ponies, and they
did 17
miles 1600 yards. We had frozen raw pony meat to eat on the march, and
a good
hoosh of pony meat and pemmican for dinner. Wild is practically all
right, and
Adams finds a wisdom tooth growing in place of the one he lost. Our
eyes are
not too comfortable just now. It is a wonderful place we are in, all
new to the
world, and yet I feel that I cannot describe it. There is an impression
of
limitless solitude about it all that makes us feel so small as we
trudge along,
a few dark specks on the snowy plain, and watch the new land appear. November
26.
A day to remember, for we have passed the "farthest South" previously
reached by man. To-night we are in latitude 82° 18' South, longitude
168° East,
and this latitude we have been able to reach in much less time than on
the last
long march with Captain Scott, when we made latitude 82° 16' our
"farthest
South." We started in lovely weather this morning, with the temperature
plus 19° Fahr., and it has been up to plus 20° Fahr. during the day,
giving us
a chance to dry our sleeping-bags. We were rather anxious at starting
about
Quan, who had a sharp attack of colic, the result no doubt of his
morbid
craving for bits of rope and other odds and ends in preference to his
proper
food. He soon got well enough to pull, and we got away at 7.4() A.M.,
the
surface still very soft. There are abundant signs that the wind blows
strongly
from the south-south-east during the winter, for the sastrugi are very
marked
in that direction. There are extremely large circular crystals of snow
on the
Barrier surface, and they seem hard and brittle. They catch the light
from the
sun, each one forming a reflector that dazzles the eyes as one glances
at the
million points of light. As each hour went on to-day, we found new
interest to
the west, where the land lies, for we opened out Shackleton Inlet, and
up the
inlet lies a great chain of mountains, and far into the west appear
more peaks;
to the west of Cape Wilson appears another chain of sharp peaks about
10,000
ft. high, stretching away to the north beyond the Snow Cape, and
continuing the
land on which Mount A. Markham lies. To the south-south-east ever
appear new
mountains. I trust that no land will block our path. We celebrated the
breaking
of the "farthest South" record with a four-ounce bottle of Curacoa,
sent us by a friend at home. After this had been shared out into two
tablespoonfuls each, we had a smoke and a talk before turning in. One
wonders
what the next month will bring forth. We ought by that time to be near
our
goal, all being well. NOTE. It falls
to the lot of few men
to view land not previously seen by human eyes, and it was with
feelings of
keen curiosity, not unmingled with awe, that we watched the new
mountains rise
from the great unknown that lay ahead of us. Mighty peaks they were,
the
eternal snows at their bases, and their rough-hewn forms rising high
towards
the sky. No man of us could tell what we would discover in our march
south,
what wonders might not be revealed to us, and our imaginations would
take wings
until a stumble in the snow, the sharp pangs of hunger, or the dull
ache of
physical weariness brought back our attention to the needs of the
immediate
present. As the days wore on, and mountain after mountain came into
view,
grimly majestic, the consciousness of our insignificance seemed to grow
upon
us. We were but tiny black specks crawling slowly and painfully across
the
white plain, and bending our puny strength to the task of wresting from
nature
secrets preserved inviolate through all the ages. Our anxiety to learn
what lay
beyond was none the less keen, however, and the long days of marching
over the
Barrier surface were saved from monotony by the continued appearance of
new
land to the south-east. November
27.
Started at 8 A.M., the ponies pulling well over bad surface of very
soft snow.
The weather is fine and clear save for a strong mirage, which throws
all the
land up much higher than it really is. All day we have seen new
mountains
arise, and it is causing us some anxiety to note that they trend more
and more
to the eastward, for that means an alteration of our course from nearly
due
south. Still they are a long way off, and when we get up to them we may
find some
strait that will enable us to go right through them and on south. One
speculates greatly as we march along, but patience is what is needed. I
think
that the ponies are feeling the day-in, day-out drudgery of pulling on
this
plain. Poor beasts, they cannot understand, of course, what it is all
for, and
the wonder of the great mountains is nought to them, though one notices
them at
times looking at the distant land. At lunch-time I took a photograph of
our
camp, with Mount Longstaff in the background. We had our sledge flags
up to
celebrate the breaking of the southern record. The long snow cape
marked on the
chart as being attached to Mount Longstaff is not really so. It is
attached to
a lower bluff mountain to the north of Mount Longstaff. The most
northerly peak
of Mount Longstaff goes sheer down into the Barrier, and all along this
range
of mountains are very steep glaciers, greatly crevassed. As we pass
along the
mountains the capes disappear, but there are several well-marked ones
of which
we have taken angles. Still more mountains appeared above the horizon
during
the afternoon, and when we camped to-night some were quite clearly
defined,
many, many miles away. The temperature has been up to plus 22° Fahr.
to-day,
and we took the opportunity of drying our sleeping-bags, which we
turned inside
out and laid on the sledges. To-night the temperature is plus 13° Fahr.
We find
that raw frozen pony meat cools one on the march, and during the ten
minutes'
spell after an hour's march we all cut up meat for lunch or dinner; in
the hot
sun it thaws well. This fresh meat ought to keep away scurvy from us.
Quan
seems much better to-day, but Grisi does not appear fit at all. He
seems to be
snow-blind. Our distance to-day was 16 miles 1200 yards. November
28.
Started at 7.50 A.M. in beautiful weather, but with a truly awful
surface, the
ponies sinking in very deeply. The sledges ran easily, as the
temperature was
high, plus 17° to plus 20° Fahr., the hot sun making the snow surface
almost
melt. We halted at noon for a latitude observation, and found our
latitude to
be 82° 38' South. The land now appears more to the east, bearing
south-east by
south, and some very high mountains a long way off with lower
foothills, can be
seen in front, quite different to the land abeam of us, which consists
of huge
sharp-pointed mountains with crevassed glaciers moving down gullies in
their
sides. Marshall is making a careful survey of all the principal
heights. All
day we have been travelling up and down long undulations, the width
from crest
to crest being about one and a half miles, and the rise about 1 in 100.
We can
easily see the line by our tracks sometimes being cut off sharp when we
are on
the down gradient and appearing again a long way astern as we rise. The
first
indication of the undulation was the fact of the mound we had made in
the
morning disappearing before we had travelled a quarter of a mile.
During the
afternoon the weather was very hot. A cool breeze had helped us in the
forenoon, but it died away later. Marshall has a touch of
snow-blindness, and
both Grisi and Socks were also affected during the day. When we camped
to-night
Grisi was shot. He had fallen off during the last few days, and the
snow-blindness was bad for him, putting him off his feed. He was the
one chosen
to go at the depot we made this evening. This is Depot C, and we are
leaving
one week's provisions and oil, with horse-meat, to carry us back to
Depot B. We
will go on to-morrow with 1200 lb. weight (nine weeks' provisions), and
we four
will pull with the ponies, two on each sledge. It is late now, 11 P.M.,
and we
have just turned in. We get up at 5.30 every morning. Our march for the
day was
15 miles 1500 yards statute. November
29.
Started at 8.45 A.M. with adjusted loads of 630 lb. on each sledge. We
harnessed up ourselves, but found that the ponies would not pull when
we did,
and as the loads came away lightly, we untoggled our harness. The
surface was
very soft, but during the morning there were occasional patches of hard
sastrugi, all pointing south-south-east. This is the course we are now
steering, as the land is trending about southeast by east. During the
day still
more great mountains appeared to the south-east, and to the west we
opened up
several huge peaks, 10,000 to 15,000 ft. in height. The whole country
seems to
be made up of range after range of mountains, one behind the other. The
worst
feature of to-day's march was the terribly soft snow in the hollows of
the
great undulations we were passing. During the afternoon one place was
so bad
that the ponies sank in right up to their bellies, and we had to pull
with
might and main to get the sledges along at all. When we began to ascend
the
rise on the southern side of the undulation it got better. The ponies
were
played out by 5.45 P.M., especially old Quan, who nearly collapsed, not
from
the weight of the sledge, but from the effort of lifting his feet and
limbs
through the soft snow. The weather is calm and clear, but very hot, and
it is
trying to man and beast. We are on a short allowance of food, for we
must save
all we can, so as to help the advance as far as possible. Marshall has
taken
the angles of the new land to-day. He does this regularly. The
hypsometer
readings at 1 P.M. are very high now if there is no correction, and it
is not due
to weather. We must be at about sea-level. The undulations run about
east by
south, and west by west, and are at the moment a puzzle to us. I cannot
think
that the feeding of the glaciers from the adjacent mountains has
anything to do
with their existence. There are several glaciers, but their size is
inconsiderable compared to the vast extent of Barrier affected. The
glaciers
are greatly crevassed. There are enormous granite cliffs at the foot of
the
range we are passing, and they stand vertically about 4000 to 6000 ft.
without
a vestige of snow upon them. The main bare rocks appear to be like the
schists
of the western mountains opposite our winter quarters, but we are too
far away,
of course, to be able to tell with any certainty. Down to the south are
mountains
entirely clear of snow, for their sides are vertical, and they must be
not less
than 8000 or 9000 ft. in height. Altogether it is a weird and wonderful
country. The only familiar thing is the broad expanse of Barrier to the
east,
where as yet no land appears. We did 14 miles 900 yards (statute)
to-day, and
are tired. The snow came well above our ankles, and each step became a
labour.
Still we are making our way south, and each mile gained reduces the
unknown. We
have now done over 300 miles due south in less than a month. November
30.
We started at 8 A.M. this morning. Quan very shaky and seemingly on his
last
legs, poor beast. Both he and Socks are snow-blind, so we have
improvised
shades for their eyes, which we trust will help them a little. We took
turns of
an hour each hauling at Quan's sledge, one at each side, to help him.
Socks,
being faster, always gets ahead and then has a short spell, which eases
him
considerably. We advanced very slowly to-day, for the surface was as
bad as
ever till the afternoon, and the total distance covered was 12 miles
150 yards.
Quan was quite played out, so we camped at 5.45.P.M. We give the ponies
ample
food, but they do not eat it all, though Quan whinnies for his every
meal-time.
He is particularly fond of the Maujee ration, and neglects his maize
for it.
Again to-day we saw new land to the south, and unfortunately for our
quick
progress in that direction, we find the trend of the coast more o the
eastward.
A time is coming, I can see, when we will have to ascend the mountains,
for the
land runs round more and more in an easterly direction. Still after all
we must
not expect to find things cut and dried and all suited to us in such a
place.
We will be thankful if we can keep the ponies as far as our next depot,
which
will be in latitude 84° South. They are at the present moment lying
down in the
warm sun. It is a beautifully calm, clear evening; indeed as regards
weather we
have been wonderfully fortunate, and it has given Marshall the chance
to take
all the necessary angles for the survey of these new mountains and
coast-line.
Wild is cook this week, and my week is over, so I am now living in the
other
tent. We are all fit and well, but our appetites are increasing at an
alarming
rate. We noticed this to-night after the heavy pulling to-day. A great
deal of
the land we are passing seems to consist of granite in huge masses, and
here
and there are much crevassed glaciers, pouring down between the
mountains,
perhaps from some inland ice-sheet similar to that in the north of
Victoria
Land. The mountains show great similarity in outline, and there is no
sign of
any volcanic action at all so far. The temperature for the day has
ranged
between plus 16° and plus 12° Fahr., but the hot sun has made things
appear
much warmer. December 1.
Started at 8 A.M. to-day. Quan has been growing weaker each hour, and
we
practically pulled the sledge. We passed over three undulations, and
camped at
1 P.M. In the afternoon we only did four miles, Quan being led by Wild.
He also
led Socks with one sledge, whilst Adams, Marshall, and I hauled 200 lb.
each on
the other sledge over a terribly soft surface. Poor old Quan was quite
finished
when we came to camp at 6 P.M., having done 12 miles 200 yards, so he
was shot.
We all felt losing him, I particularly, for he was my special horse
ever since
he was ill last March. I had looked after him, and in spite of all his
annoying
tricks he was a general favourite. He seemed so intelligent. Still it
was best
for him to go, and like the others he was well fed to the last. We have
now
only one pony left, and are in latitude 83° 16' South. Ahead of us we
can see
the land stretching away to the east, with a long white I me in front
of it
that looks 1 ke a giant Barrier, and nearer a very crusted-up
appearance, as
though there were great pressure ridges in front of us. It seems as
though the
Barrier end had come, and that there is now going to be a change in
some
gigantio way in keeping with the vastness of the whole place. We
fervently
trust that we will not be delayed in our march south. We are living
mainly on
horse-meat now, and on the march, to cool our throats when pulling in
the hot
sun, we chew some raw frozen meat. There was a slight breeze for a time
to-day,
and we felt chilly, as we were pulling stripped to our shirts. We wear
our
goggles all the time, for the glare from the snow surface is intense
and the
sky is cloudless. A few wisps of fleecy cloud settle on the tops of the
loftiest mountains, but that is all. The surface of the Barrier still
sparkles
with the million frozen crystals which stand apart from the ordinary
surface
snow. One or two new peaks came in sight to-day, so we are ever adding
to the
chain of wonderful mountains that we have found. At one moment our
thoughts are
on the grandeur of the scene, the next on what we would have to eat if
only we
were let loose in a good restaurant. We are very hungry these days, and
we know
that we are likely to be for another three months. One of the granite
cliffs we
are nearing is over 6000 ft. sheer, and much bare rock is showing,
which must
have running water on it as the hot sun plays down. The moon was
visible in the
sky all day and it was something familiar, yet far removed from these
days of
hot sunshine and wide white pathways. The temperature is now plus 16°
Fahr.,
and it is quite warm in the tent. December 2.
Started at 8 A.M., all four of us hauling one sledge, and Socks
following
behind with the other. He soon got into our regular pace, and did very
well
indeed. The surface during the morning was extremely bad and it was
heavy work
for us. The sun beat down on our heads and we perspired freely, though
we were
working only in shirts and pyjama trousers, whilst our feet were cold
in the
snow. We halted for lunch at 1 P.M., and had some of Quan cooked, but
he was
very tough meat, poor old beast. Socks, the only pony left now, is
lonely. He
whinnied all night for his lost companion. At 1 P.M. to-day we had got
close
enough to the disturbance ahead of us to see that it consisted of
enormous pressure
ridges, heavily crevassed and running a long way east, with not the
slightest
chance of our being able to get southing that way any longer on the
Barrier. So
after lunch we struck due south in toward the land, which is now
running in a
south-east direction, and at 6 P.M. we were close to the ridges off the
coast.
There is a red hill about 3000 ft. in height, which we hope to ascend
to-morrow, so as to gain a view of the surrounding country. Then we
will make
our way, if possible, with the pony up a glacier ahead of us on to the
land
ice, and on to the Pole if all goes well. It is an anxious time for us,
for
time is precious and food more so; we will be greatly relieved if we
find a
good route through the mountains. Now that we are close to the land we
can see
more clearly the nature of the mountains. From Mount Longstaff in a
south-east
direction, the land appears to be far more glaciated than further
north, and
since the valleys are very steep, the glaciers that they contain are
heavily
crevassed. These glaciers bear out in a north-east direction into the
Barrier.
Immediately opposite our camp the snow seems to have been blown off the
steep
mountain sides. The mountain ahead of us, which we are gonig to climb
to-morrow, is undoubtedly granite, but very much weathered. In the
distance it
looked like volcanic rock, but now there can be no doubt that it
consists of
granite. Evidently the great ice-sheet has passed over this part of the
land,
for the rounded forms could not have been caused by ordinary
weathering.
Enormous pressure ridges that run out from the south of the mountain
ahead must
be due to a glacier far greater in extent than any we have yet met. The
glacier
that comes out of Shackleton Inlet makes a disturbance in the Barrier
ice, but
not nearly as great as the disturbance in our immediate neighbourhood
at the
present time. The glacier at Shackleton Inlet is quite a short one. We
have now
closed in to the land, but before we did so we could see the rounded
tops of
great mountains extending in a south-easterly direction. If we are
fortunate
enough to reach the summit of the mountain to-morrow, we should be able
to see
more clearly the line of these mountains to the south-east. It would be
very
interesting to follow along the Barrier to the south-east, and see the
trend of
the mountains but that does not enter into our programme. Our way lies
to the
south. How one wishes for time and unlimited provisions ! Then indeed
we could
penetrate the secrets of this great lonely continent. Regrets are vain,
however,
and we wonder what is in store for us beyond the mountains if we are
able to
get there. The closer observation of these mountains ought to give
geological
results of importance. We may have the good fortune to discover
fossils, or at
any rate to bring back specimens that will determine the geological
history of
the country and prove a connection between the granite boulders lying
on the
slopes of Erebus and Terror and the land lying to the far south. Our
position
to-night is latitude 83° 28' South, longitude 171° 30' East. If we can
get on
the mountain to-morrow, it will be the pioneer landing in the far
south. We
travelled 11 miles 1450 yards (statute) to-day; which was not bad,
seeing that
we were pulling 180 lb. per man on a bad surface. We got a photograph
of the
wonderful red granite peaks close to us, for now we are only eight
miles or so
off the land. The temperature is plus 20°, with a high barometer. The
same fine
weather continues, but the wind is cold in the early morning, when we
turn out
at. 5.30 A.M. for breakfast. December 4.
Unable to write yesterday owing to bad attack of snow-blindness, and
not much
better to-night, but I must record the events of the two most
remarkable days
that we have experienced since leaving the winter quarters. After
breakfast at
5.30 A.M. yesterday, we started off from camp, leaving all camp gear
standing
and a good feed by Socks to last him the whole day. We got under way at
9 A.M.,
taking four biscuits, four lumps of sugar, and two ounces of chocolate
each for
lunch. We hoped to get water at the first of the rocks when we landed.
Hardly
had we gone one hundred yards when we came to a crevasse, which we did
not see
very distinctly, for the light was bad, and the sun obscured by clouds.
We
roped up and went on in single file, each with his ice-pick handy. I
found it
very difficult to see clearly with my goggles, and so took them off,
and the
present attack of snow-blindness is the result, for the sun came out
gloriously
later on. We crossed several crevasses filled with snow except at the
sides,
the gaps being about 2 ft. wide, and the whole crevasses from 10 to 20
ft.
across. Then we were brought up all standing by an enormous chasm of
about 80
ft. wide and 300 ft. deep which lay right across our route. This chasm
was
similar to, only larger than, the one we encountered in latitude 80°
30' South
when on the southern journey with Captain Scott during the Discovery
expedition. By making a detour
to the right we found that
it gradually pinched out and became filled with snow, and so we were
able to
cross and resume our line to the land, which very deceptively appeared
quite
close but was really some miles away. Crossing
several ridges of
ice-pressure and many more crevasses, we eventually at 12.30 P.M.
reached an
area of smooth blue ice in which were embedded several granite
boulders, and
here we obtained a drink of delicious water formed by the sun playing
on the
rock face and heating the ice at the base. After travelling for half a
mile, we
reached the base of the mountain which we hoped to climb in order to
gain a
view of the surrounding country. This hill is composed of granite, the
red
appearance being no doubt due to iron. At 1 P.M. we had a couple of
biscuits
and some water, and then started to make our way up the precipitous
rock face.
This was the most difficult part of the whole climb, for the granite
was
weathered and split in every direction, and some of the larger pieces
seemed to
be just nicely balanced on smaller pieces, so that one could almost
push them
over by a touch. With great difficulty we clambered up this rock face,
and then
ascended a gentle snow slope to another rocky bit, but not so difficult
to
climb. From the top of this ridge there burst upon our view an open
road to the
south, for there stretched before us a great glacier running almost
south and
north between two huge mountain ranges. As far as we could see, except
towards
the mouth, the glacier appeared to be smooth, yet this was not a
certainty, for
the distance was so great. Eagerly we clambered up the remaining ridges
and
over a snow-slope, and found ourselves at the top of the mountain, the
height
being 3350 ft. according to aneroid and hypsometer. From the summit we
could
see the glacier stretching away south inland till at last it seemed to
merge in
high inland ice. Where the glacier fell into the Barrier about
north-east
bearing, the pressure waves were enormous, and for miles the surface of
the
Barrier was broken up. This was what we had seen ahead of us the last
few days,
and we now understood the reason of the commotion on the Barrier
surface. To
the south-east we could see the lofty range of mountains we had been
following
still stretching away in the same direction, and we can safely say that
the
Barrier is bounded by a chain of mountains extending in a southeasterly
direction as far as the 86th parallel South. The mountains to the west
appear
to be more heavily glaciated than the ones to the eastward. There are
some huge
granite faces on the southern sides of the mountains, and these faces
are
joined up by cliffs of a very dark hue. To the south-south-east,
towards what
is apparently the head of the glacier, there are several sharp cones of
very
black rock, eight or nine in all. Beyond these are red granite faces,
with
sharp, needle-like spurs, similar in appearance to the "cathedral"
rocks described by Armitage in connection with the Discovery
expedition to the western mountains. Further on to the
south the mountains have a bluff appearance, with long lines of
stratification
running almost horizontally. This bluff mountain range seems to break
about
sixty miles away, and beyond can be seen dimly other mountains. Turning
to the
west, the mountains on that side appeared to be rounded and covered
with huge
masses of ice, and glaciers showing the lines of crevasses. In the far
distance
there is what looked like an active volcano. There is a big mountain
with a
cloud on the top, bearing all the appearance of steam from an active
cone. It
would be very interesting to find an active volcano so far south. After
taking
bearings of the trend of the mountains, Barrier and glacier, we ate our
frugal
lunch and wished for more, and then descended. Adams had boiled the
hypsometer
and taken the temperature on the top, whilst Marshall, who had carried
the
camera on his back all the way up, took a couple of photographs. How we
wished
we had more plates to spare to get a record of the wonderful country we
were
passing through. At 4 P.M. we began to descend, and at 5 P.M. we were
on the
Barrier again. We were rather tired and very hungry when, at 7 P.M., we
reached
our camp. After a good dinner, and a cupful of Maujee ration in the
hoosh as an
extra, we turned in. To-day, December 4, we got under way at 8 A.M. and steered into the land, for we could see that there was no question as to the way we should go now. Though on the glacier, we might encounter crevasses and difficulties not to be met with on the Barrier, yet on the latter we could get no further than 86° South, and then would have to turn in towards the land and get over the mountains to reach the Pole. We felt that our main difficulty on the glacier route would be with the pony Socks, and we could not expect to drag the full load ourselves as yet without relay work. Adams, Marshall, and I pulled one sledge with 680 lb. weight, and Wild followed with Socks directly in our wake, so that if we came to a crevasse he would have warning. Everything went on well except that when we were close in to land, Marshall went through the snow covering of a crevasse. He managed to hold himself up by his arms. We could see nu bottom to this crevasse. At 1 P.M. we were close to the snow-slope up which we hoped to reach the interior of the land and thence get on to the glacier. We had lunch and then proceeded, finding, instead of a steep, short slope, a long, fairly steep gradient. All the afternoon we toiled at the sledge, Socks pulling his load easily enough, and eventually, at 5 P.M., reached the head of the pass, 2000 ft. above sea-level. From that point there was a gentle descent towards the glacier, and at 6 P.M. we camped close to some blue ice with granite boulders embedded in it, round which were pools of water. This water saves a certain amount of our oil, for we have not to melt snow or ice. We turned in at 8 P.M., well satisfied with the day's work. The weather now is wonderfully fine, with not a breath of wind, and a warm sun beating down on us. The temperature was up to plus 22° Fahr. at noon, and is now plus 18° Fahr. The pass through which we have come is flanked by great granite pillars at least 2000 ft. in height and making a magnificent entrance to the "Highway to the South." It is all so interesting and everything is on such a vast scale that one cannot describe it well. We four are seeing these great designs and the play of nature in her grandest moods for the first time, and possibly they may never be seen by man again. Poor Marshall had another four miles' walk this evening, for he found that he had lost his Jaeger jacket off the sledge. He had therefore to tramp back uphill for it, and found it two miles away on the trail. Socks is not feeding well. He seems lonely without his companions. We gave him a drink of thaw water this evening, but he did not seem to appreciate it, preferring the snow at his feet. |